Color film developing chemicals reddit. get yourself 3 big plastic buckets from home depot.
Color film developing chemicals reddit If you want color, you can process it in cold c41 chemistry. You can scan 12 shots of 35 at once. I then make a batch of color developer (ecn-2 the last few years) and spend the next 2-3 weeks developing the rolls. I use Cinestill’s D96 mono bath for B+W film and their C41 kit for color. So I am just getting into developing my own color film and I have already mixed in my powder chemicals from my Cinestill Kit. If you get the right tank and reel(s), developing medium format is exactly the same as developing 35mm film, you just need a little bit more chemistry per roll. On the other hand, when developing color film it's more like you buy one of the few C41 kits available and follow the instructions as closely as possible. I’ve been searching around for days now trying to find color film developing chemicals. I’m looking to buy some film developing chemicals so I can save on having to pay to develop all my films but I just wanted to know if I need two sets… 45K subscribers in the Darkroom community. I priced out a full list of equipment to develop my own color film and it comes out to $211. Color is actually easier to develop as most kits are a 2-3 step process and C-41 is a standardized process so all chemistry works the same. b&w, though. Upfront cost is equipment and chemicals but overall you develop rolls for less than a lab. Color negative does not do well with underexposure and you’ll get increased grain and color shifts. If in a city (US) with a camera store -- see what they have in stock. Film Processing Chemicals from Firstcall Photographic. Crypto For color I use the cinestill 2 part kit. 36 - H-B DURAC B60800-3100 General Purpose Liquid-in-Glass Thermometer; -20 to 150°C, Total Immersion, Organic Liquid Fill Developing film doesn’t require a darkroom. The secret to consistent and successful developing is temperature and time. With Kodak film you'll have the orange cast, but you can still scan or print from the negative. Most chemicals reccommend around 20 Celcius. Buy a cheap sous vide, a plastic tub big enough to hold 2x 1L bottles and the sous vide with room for water, 3x 1L opaque bottles to store chemicals, (datatainer or similar work well) the Cine still CS41 quart kit, a couple gallons of distilled water, a Patterson tank, and a changing bag. , velvia and portra) in one batch of processing. Printing film requires a darkroom - but you can develop your film and scan it, so a darkroom isn’t necessary to get started. 36K subscribers in the Darkroom community. Not sure what the color chemicals cost vs. If you're a film photographer, you've probably heard of ECN-2 film processing. I would like to use stand developing with rodinal but I don't know if that works with 400 speed film. All the links below go to Freestyle Photo, as that is who I usually order all of my chemicals and film from. I kept all chemicals air tight and under the sink but was only developing rolls biweekly so it lasted about 6 months until I noticed one roll was pretty weak in terms of contrast so did a snip test and developer was dark brown not black. if you have a window tape it off with heavy black plastic. My home dev color results never look as good as color negs I get back from the lab. In my experience, it isn't worth developing color film as b&w. Fixer is just there to remove the undeveloped emulsion on the film. The flickering scratching and the most lengthy processing times you'll see. If your film is properly stored you can still shoot it a box speed and develop it in C41. Was… Alright, Allow me to be more helpful. But to develop the film correctly and develop it as I want. I add approximately 10 sec/roll each time. View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. Based on my searches I know similar questions have been done to death on this sub, but I'm specifically curious about how to control chemical temperatures for the printing process. Color cross processed photographs are often characterized by unnatural colors and high contrast. 56 self scan cost = $0. What other options exist out there for developing C-41 film? I’m thinking about price, longevity and quality. I once asked the man who owns the local photo lab about learning how to do color development. Nope, tons of people (myself included) develop film at home. Color negative (c-41) requires temperature control and slide film (e6) its a pain 😂 it requires exact timing, exact temperature and haves 5 chemicals. In Kodachrome, there are no color dyes in the film at all. However, this means I need to buy some chemicals and there are a lot more… I'm thinking of getting a C-41 kit to develop some rolls of colour film at home for the sake of convenience and also I'm interested in experimenting with bleach bypass which is something no labs around me do. cafe May 29, 2013 · You can develop E6 and C41 slide or negative film with B&W developers and get monochromatic results. Of you have 1 degree of you get color casts. In general though, developing by hand is very forgiving for black and white and just a tad less for color. Don't skip the blix. I know the developer itself is specifically for BW Film Developing Chemicals. That’s usually 1-4 weeks after the first is done. Some searching is required to find the best prices, but as a general rule photo formulary is super cheap especially for larger quantities, artcraft is good for the color developing agents, and ebay and amazon can be used for ones you can't find on the other two. You will have to load in TOTAL darkness. You can develop in your bathroom with a Patterson tank. The color chemicals are powders and have a few week shelf life while mixed so that takes a little planning. 35mm Color Film developing help . don’t overthink it, it’s literally 24 rolls of film, regardless of frames… anyways i found out that developing at most 14 rolls is the best because the chemicals lose their effectiveness greatly after that, in that the rolls don’t get properly developed even after accounting for the increased development time I've only ever developed color at home and my only issue was once I didn't fill my Patterson tank all the way, causing the bottom bit of some frames to not be developed properly. My question is that I want to buy the chemicals for C-41 in bulk powder form, like how I buy my D-76 Kodak developer. 99 - Darkroom Bag Film Changing Bag - 23. The film is made of chemicals. But I'm worried that I won't be shooting/developing often enough if the chemistry doesn't last very long once mixed. I recommend that you look at a bunch (quite a few) of YT videos on "how to" develop C41. You can, however, develop Kodachrome in standard black-and-white chemistry, and get images out of it that way. Film photography subreddit. For $100 you can get a tank, reels, dark bag, squeegee, chemicals, archive sheets and a thermometer. Pulling, would be the exact opposite of this, metering for a lower ISO and leaving your lab instructions to pull it the appropriate number of stops. They won Black and white isn't so bad, but color negative has to be precise in temp and timings. Like you said, the time it consumes is really not worth it in my opinion. I might be a little crazy but maybe someone can help me with this. You need to use the appropriate chemistry for the film if you want the results that should be expected from the film. I’ve been seeing things saying b&w is much easier to develop but others saying color is easier or really there isn’t much of a difference. The only thing they're good for is imitation war films. 13 votes, 31 comments. thisbis why labs often offer cheaper color film processing compared to black you need a developing tank and chemicals for either black and white or color film. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. I've seen mention of people using Acufine/Diafine and Rodinal, but never tried it myself. The most time consuming stages of development are mixing chemicals, heating them to temperature, and agitation. Cinestill has a kit but B&H won’t ship it - amazon will ship for double the cost. I've got access to a darkroom and able to use their equipment/scanners, but they only have BW chemistry. Crypto Works for color too! Initially I wanted a fully automatic machine like Filmomat, but over time my preferences changed. Everyone says HC110 is best for expired film but I have had mixed results in the past with it. I’ve had this happen before when my lab processed a roll of T-max using their C-41 machine by accident. It could probably still have been used, but the development time was nearing 7 minutes, and there started to come some slight color shifts. E6 at its core is just developing a black & white negative, reversing it, and then adding dye colors on top of the reversal. ) in case that helps. 3" Thick Cotton Fabric Anti-Static Material for Film Changing Film Developing Pro Photography Supplies $12. For starters just keep it simple. Business, Economics, and Finance. Fact :) For color, Kodak does not recommend pre-washing, but their instructions are always written for photo labs, not for small tank users like us. (Cellphone flashlight) I have used the above for C-22 in the past and have gotten decent results. They find it simpler and faster than black and white development, and… In the end any quality fixer will work fine. Having said that, everything I'm about to list aside from chemicals, you can re-use for years. Posted by u/chucklingmonkey - 5 votes and 2 comments Business, Economics, and Finance. Posted by u/Ed-Tone - 2 votes and 6 comments r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. I spent about $250 for everything I needed to develop B&W and color. great decission to start a film home developing. So I ended up buying a lot of chemicals. Developing is done most of the time at 20 celsius. com or do some Google search to get the steps. See full list on analog. Unlike most color films, Kodachrome doesn't have this dye in the film (as it is added during development), so it will end up clear. Removing the film: dark bag film developing canister/tank film reel film canister opening tool or film reel remover scissors Developing the film: Chemicals (developer, stopper, fixer) thermometer bottle container for chemicals funnel water bucket measuring cup Drying the film: cloth drying hanger thing cloth clips I use this when doing my own color development. I'm excited to start developing my own film. First, do you want to develop color (negative) or black and white? Both have their own chemicals. put like 800ml of developer in one, water in the next, and fix in the last. Basically, the molecules of hair dye (4-phenylenediamine) and rodinal's developing agent, 4-aminophenol are kind of similar to the CD-series molecules-they all have NH2 group(s) in para- position on the ring. This also doesn't include gas to the post office, time spent driving to the post office, waiting in line, waiting for the film to get to the lab, and waiting for the film to get back to me. The film can be developed in C41 as well, but the results color-wise in my opinion are significantly better when the film is developed in ECN2. The 12th roll would be 3m50s, 13th roll would be 4m0s in developer, and on and on. I'm not the person who originally figured out that the E6 process could be essentially replicated with other color chemicals. Alternative Photography process discussion is also welcome. His two cents was “just have us do it. Bit of common advice: keep your water temperature and chemical temp the same and store your chemicals in brown bottles and in cool, dry places. I'm trying to jump into color without overwhelming myself. I would look online for your film and developer and use that time. I already have a darkroom and I have developed around maybe 30+ rolls of black and white film in 120 and 35mm. Grab a camera and some film and get shooting. The next key supply you’ll need is a film developing kit. B&W is very easy and extremely rewarding (especially if, like me, you get into darkroom printing with an enlarger). When developing bw there is no standard time for films. It's a more lengthy process, and there is not as much freedom to play and experiment. I'm ready to develop my first roll of film since high school (yay!). I know that I need developer, blix and stabilizer I just don't know what specific chemicals are compatible with each other. Chemical Reuse - Processing with Weakened Developer Solution Using a volume of chemicals once will not destroy its ability to develop film. I seem to get better results developing C-41 films in ECN-2 chemicals for 5 minutes, than I do developing ECN-2 films in C-41 chemicals for any length of time. Pre-washing color film in warm water helps getting the film & tank to the correct temperature before pouring in developer, which hugely helps keeping the target dev. I have a ton of color rolls… r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. Then (back in the light) he puts in different chemicals for different amounts of time to develop the film and make it safe to be in the light, and hangs up the film on a clothesline or in a drying cabinet to dry from the chemicals. . c41 is a standardised process. It's a soviet color reversal (slide) film made for an obsolete Orwo C-9165 process. For color I wait until I’ve acquired about 15 rolls of color film. I wonder if it is really so dangerous that I shouldn’t use it in a small apartment bathroom or if there is an alternative processe for color film developing at home. I started this also a few years ago bcos the same reason - i wasn't happy with the lab's results and understood that the only wat to learn film photography is to develop my film rolls by myself. I bought some Agfa rapid films to refill the casetts but they did have some 1968 expired agfa color film in there. put them in your bathtub. I have about 12 rolls of color stored, ready to develop. A place to post questions about film developing (35mm, 120, ect), get help with DIY at home developing, tips and tricks from darkroom veterans and more! r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. ” From what I understand Color development has more variables that can affect how the final product comes out. Dec 16, 2024 · For this I'd recommend an ECN2 developer (which is what the film is made for). If you skip the fixing stage, the film will be ruined by light once removed from the tank. If you want to shoot b&w, shoot b&w film. About the chemicals - some BW developer and a fixer is exactly what you need. is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. When you bleach color film, it removes the exposed silver, but leaves behind the colored dyes. Now, if your question is a much reasonable "Can I develop film with a high degree of safety?" then, yes, there are developer, stop, and fix choices that are quite safe. Apart from a sous vide machine for temp control is there anything else colour needs? Any chemical recommendations? Id rather buy chemicals individually than those basic colour kits you can find. However, as I don't have as much free time as I initially intended to, I'm afraid I won't be able to develop as much as 24 films (as suggested in the chem guide of the kit as its full capacity) in the span of 8-12 weeks only. For some expired film I think D76 as stock works better. Pretty easy to get back into. I tried cinestill kit and it was decent. Most of the chemicals (stop bath, fixer, and photoflo) are safe… With this batch, i developed 46 rolls of 35 mm color negative film. Practice with junk film on how to load reel in light. Jun 22, 2018 · How To Develop Film Soup. To get everything ready I was looking over the data sheet that came along with my bag of Cinestill's C41 powder kit and i was confused by what it said. I have around 60 color positive films (slide films) in my freezer and decided to shoot all of them, before buying new film. i got the cine still duo kit (used) i think thats a great way to start, its like 200 but theoretically will pay off, you can most definitely build your own 'kit' for cheaper, i think the cinestill color chemicals are solid ,advertising 24 rolls. Ask anything about analog photography in our weekly "ask anything" thread, or share photos. It's not just about developing the film. Plus I just don't want to deal with chemicals or storing chemicals. When I develop color film, I usually open a bathroom window and use a respirator. The base fog will be pretty big and the negative look almost dark if you If you're only developing a roll every few weeks, then storage of chemicals becomes an issue-- once you mix up the developer/stop/fix, the clock starts ticking, although the alarm goes off at different times depending on what chemical and how it's stored. YOU are made of chemicals. times are standardised as well, meaning all c41 films (no matter the ISO or brand) can be processed in the same tank for the same amount of time, at the same temperature. The chemicals come in a powder form, so you just have to get the appropriate containers to mix it in. Honestly, chemicals are the cheapest part of film photography, and since I have gained more experience over the last 7 years I have been developing my own BW film, I am much more concerned about consistency than chemical cost/use. Not mostly dark-- totally dark. But I don't have a lot of space to store the mixed chemicals. I'd just have to develop 9 to 10 rolls for it to pay for itself. Introducing True ECN-2 Processing. I don’t have the slightest clue on what black and white chemistry would do to color film. 67 USD a roll, while colour is $2. You can’t use any set of chemicals and assume they’ll give you the colours that you want. Would it be better for me to buy the chemicals in bulk separate or a Ilford developing kit Locked post. I'm developing color film at home for the first time, I have done black and white at home before but I wanted to try color. This day and age, I'd rather send my film for processing and pay for scans and then have a decent printer make prints after digital color correction. I want to develop my own Black & White film, i bought a couple of roll of kodak iso 200 film, and all the equipment for developing film, and a scanner. get yourself 3 big plastic buckets from home depot. or does it have to be c41/e6? Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 2 votes and 6 comments I am fairly new to developing and I have a question regarding the temperatures of the chemicals while developing 35mm film. For the C41 chemistry, it depends very strongly on what's available to you locally. The black and white chemicals are the liquid concentrates and will last forever properly stored. You will need a completely dark area to transfer the film onto the reels and load them into the My advice for processing 100ft spools is Do not use a fucking Morse tank. Nevertheless, it still did its job just fine, and the small color shifts were easily corrected during scanning. It’s pretty quick because it’s so easy to develop as you go with rodinal. For chemistry it depends- if you're using foma R-100 you DO need to do reversal process- developing it as a negative will give a completely black image. The canister allows him to put in chemicals without exposing the film to light. Looking to develop my black and white film roll, and was wondering if anyone does that anymore in Kolkata, and if yes where. I even got a sous vide machine to get the temperature right. The companion product to Adotol is also made by Calbe. What film is it? It should say on the canister if its c41 e6 or bw. Get a thermometer for sure, and keep things on the cooler end. I was hoping to try my hand at home development. You can reuse the chemicals for multiple rolls. I’m particularly careful about my lungs because I’m asthmatic so maybe I’m being overly cautious. A good deal of it is powder, so I’m not too worried about that, but there is also some liquids, such as HC110, Rodinal, a color kit, as well as fixer, stop bath, as well as a jumble of other things. Hey all! I buy a cinestill chemical kit and a sous vide Posted by u/smortandtoit - 2 votes and 4 comments No. Ive got a ton of black and white darkroom experience over the years and I've recently been developing a lot of 4x5 B+W in my bathroom. Hi all, I do film photography as a hobby, and recently got into home film developing. Especially now that c41 film is so expensive. Good examples here: Cross-processing colour film in b&w Feb 2, 2021 · Ted Partrick wrote: My experience so far is that the C-41 development process is actually easier than black-and-white ones. I’m just starting to get into color film developing (c-41 and e-6 at the same time). Other stuff from like the film photography project or John Schwind are negative (or color neg or e6) stocks, so you can use any of those processes, the same as you would with 35mm, just scaled up. I rarely use B&W film so maybe I should just get it done at The Darkroom Lab but that's like $33 for 2 rolls of film. For discussion of how to shoot film, buying advice, or what went wrong on your first roll head on over to /r/analogcommunity. 5, with the exact exposure for just the darkest shadows to render full black (I find that time by making a test strip of just the leader for roll film or the film edge for 4x5 - just the unexposed but fully developed gray part of the film, like the Hello, I have been developing black and white film for a while now but I want to try color film. D96 is about 25 USD shipped and develops roughly 16 rolls - cost per roll to dev = $1. Popular options include the Cinestill Cs41 Simplified Color Processing Kit and the Unicolor Powder Kit. Hey Lovies! I currently develop my C-41 film with Tetenal Colortec but find that it’s actually quite expensive considering what people can get their hands on. Almost everyone works differently and with each film differently and differently when you shake it and differently when you don't shake it and differently when you increase the contrast in the second bath etc. In terms of pull-developing color negative film, I would start by looking at the information packet that came with your developing chemicals or kit. Even caffenol and Vitamin C are chemicals. Study what each chem does. Kodachrome is a very unique film from a chemical standpoint. If you have the space and a well defined process, it really isn't all that bad, but when you toss film in the fridge and when you decided "oh, I have time to develop film today" only to open the fridge door and see 15 rolls of different types of films. Color (negative) is less flexible when it comes to temperature, but it is also standardized. First, all the normal color negative films (not slides!) are developed in exactly the same way, so you can mix all the brands, iso ranges, and color variations (eg. Usually they have a reference for pull developing overexposed film and/or push developing underexposed film. Luckily living in Vietnam, film is still very popular. 44. However, extra time must be added to the processing to compensate for the weakened developer. As most C41 is not one shot you can also develop one film at a time - then you should be able to see your color developer degrade and you only mess up one roll of film. Main difference to developing photographic 35mm color negatives is that motion picture color negative film has a remjet layer which must be washed off (it’s ECN-2 process and not traditional C-41 process) In the interest of money saving how easy is C41 developing to start when I have the essentially for black and white film. B&W works out to be $3. You can cross process color film in BW chemical but Rodinal is not the best for this. Freestyle Photo and B&H are good places to shop for the equipment and chemicals. B&W is easier/more flexible, but the developing time is different per film roll. Soon I'm going to develop my own color film with the Cinestill C41 chemicals. It is cheaper and has better contrast, because there is no orange mask. Hi All, I want to start developing my own color films, but am lacking the chemicals and some few materials; am also not clear on one point. Al film rolls will have te same developing time. One caveat is that due to COVID-19 some of Flexicolor chemicals aren't easy to find at the moment. 3"x23. temperature as close to 100F as r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. Google "developing with Kodak flexicolor" and you'll find plenty of resources to get started. Thank you in advance <3 Just shoot and develop more film and you will get a feeling for it. I always use dilution B. Got about 10 rolls developed before the developer started to slip. r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. B&H, Adorama, etc, and your local stores are all good places to buy your chemicals. I'm planning on purchasing a negative scanner so that I can simply develop my rolls 2-at-a-time in my developing tank, dry them, and then scan them. Today, I'll take you on a journey through the process, from sourcing the chemicals to producing stunning results. Film soup is a process of soaking a roll of film in materials, such as dish soap or lemon juice, before developing to create color shifts and artifacts on your film. I am down to the only things left on the to buy list, the chemicals. color film chemicals need to be kept at a certain temperature during development and don't keep for as long, so it's better to start with black and white because chemicals are cheaper and relatively insensitive to temperature so less can go wrong. A 300 is a universal powder acid fixer for films and papers that can be used for manual proces (1) can you develop color film in just B&W film chemicals,? like arista and Illford. All up Posted by u/Inevitable-Mobile-52 - No votes and 10 comments Different "recipes" are generally for black & white film, where there are a hundred developers that all work differently, and different films respond differently to the developer dilution, development time, temperature, etc. Thanks in advance! $21. Developing film does require a Paterson tank, so good on you for getting one. First roll of color film. as the other person commented a sous vide cooker (never heard of it before but looks 99% like the cine still heater) looks like a good way to keep Does anyone develop their own color film (for personal use, not as a business)? If so, how do you dispose of the chemicals? A user on this site (not from this area) stated that he saves spent chemicals until he has a sufficient amount then takes them to a facility for disposal. A local photography shop recently shut up shop, and had a huge sale. Hi there, I'm in the process of setting up a darkroom for the purpose of developing and printing black+white and color 35mm film. So developing and scanning film is very affordable. The time on the box is just the time for the first step of this process, which is black and white development, color development occurs later. If you dont find a time, you can try stand development. This includes the necessary chemical solutions for developing color film at home: a color developer, bleaching solution, fixer, and stabilizer or rinse. all developing kits should yield very similar results, when used correctly (follow your kits instruction closely!). The bulk of the lot is 35mm color print film, and there's 34 color slide and 28 black and white film. Been wanting to get into color film developing given the rising costs of sending it to a lab. I know that this has come up many times in this sub, but I am looking for advice to start developing c-41 color film on my own. If its c41 develop it in c41. Would also love to hear about where you guys buy and develop color film. The results were a blank strip of film light can't penetrate. Changing bags are available if you can't create a light-tight space somewhere in You’re probably using color chemicals to develop a black and white film stock. I use a 1 litre Paterson tank. The results of cross processing differ from case to case, as the results are determined by many factors such as the make and type of the film used, the amount of light exposed onto the film and the chemical used to develop the film. The chemicals are different depending on the type of film and desired results (E6,C41, Black and white). First do your research based on the type of film you want to develop. Hi, I'm thinking of making the jump and starting to develop color neg film at home. r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing… Flexicolor is also cheaper than kits, mostly because chemicals are sold in larger quantities. But development is fairly easy to suss out - I don't scan, but I make a 5x7 print at grade 2. I think B&W is $8. D76 is a prime example, which is a great developer and I have reused it before with great results. The county where I live has dedicated waste disposal sites and they specify that photos chemicals can be brought there. If you try developing know that b&w is easier. r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring… Everyone has told me B&W is super easy but I don't even know what chemicals to get. Before I dumped out all the cross-processing chemicals, I knew I needed to get one final hurrah out of them by using them to develop some film soup. The film will be a negative image. I have catalogued them all by type (Kodak Royal Gold 100 36 etc. Redditors generally have positive opinions about developing color film at home. This is the reason. I think, all in, I spent less than $200 for my whole color developing kit (sous vide, thermometer, tank, changing bag, chemicals, storage, stirrer, chemicals). I’ve developed black and white film with caffenol with positive… r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. In normal film, like C41 and E6, you have colored dyes in the film that give you the color of your image. I decided to buy a film camera on eBay as a impulse hobby and am trying to decide between starting with black and white or color film. My frustration with home development is not shooting enough to fully utilize the chemicals. Sure, it isn't totally analog but my experience in a color darkroom taught me that it is a huge pain in the ass to print color on paper with an enlarger. Instead, the color dye is added to the film during the 14 step development process. I’ve been developing black and white film for 2 decades and its not a steep learning curve. Chemicals can be easily gotten through photographer's formulary, artcraft chemicals, ebay, and amazon. I'm a beginner and I want to get into developing film more often. I can't find any such facility on the Baltimore City site. I'm extremely new to developing film, have done monobath only. And finally I am aware K12 is older than K14 but can the same chemicals be used for a slightly different period of time or are different chemicals recommend. ECN-2 chemistry can also be used in conjunction with B&W chemistry to get really good results from E-6 films, because the color developing agent in E-6 (CD-3) is the same as in ECN-2. Is there alternatives that B&H will ship? It seems as no matter the brand or whether it’s powder mix or liquid, B&H won’t ship it. I havent processed any E6 yet, is it a big difference to C41? And can you recommend any Chemical Kits? I saw some from Cinestill and Tetenal. Advice? If I interpret your comment correctly, you’re developing colour negative (C-41) film in an ECN-2 developing set. You need a dark space to get your film from the canister into the developing tank. So, if developing the 11th roll of film, it would be 3m40s in developer. In my own experience. For 120, 1-2 depends on the format. Color film developing chemicals have gotten a little more lenient in the past few years. Does anyone know anything about this very old film and what is the best way to develop this film with the chemicals available in 2024. I wanna develop 50year expired colour film that technically needs to be develop in chemicals not made since the 80s. This method is known for delivering exceptional color tones and dynamic range, typically used for motion picture films. Your images look like that because you underexposed them. When you are processing your film, you would simply give your lab instructions to push it 2 stops in development, or developing it for the times of a 1600 ISO film if you are developing yourself. You can check on Instructables. Where I am really struggling is just getting a basic idea of what chemicals I'm going to need to develop c41 color film, but after much searching I havent found anything. Color negative film, on the other hand, is standardized around the C-41 process (your film canister probably says C-41 on it somewhere). If it's underdeveloped it could be a temp thing. Developing film isn't cheap, at least not up front. The dead giveaway was the fact that the rebate had been stripped off, so the whole strip was completely clear. TLDR: I wanted to start developing color negative film at home but read about the dangers of C41 leading to cancer and early death. They have everything else like the spools, film holders, tank, beakers, etc. I understand that the mix of developer and water needs to be at the specified temperature as per the massive dev chart page, but what about the other chemicals? Fixer, Stop Bath and Wetting Agent. This requires very special chemistry the simplest way to start is buy a cart of 7266, some dektol developer and some fix (any kind, i usually use ilford). Any help is greatly appreciated!! Posted by u/moonshroom20 - 5 votes and 3 comments Look for your local waste disposal. In total there's 250+ rolls! There may be some more in some other boxes. You still need the water baths and want to keep it from fluctuating too much, obviously, but I never had any real trouble with it and we had a pretty primitive system at my uni. I tend to do this after I develop the first 8-10 rolls of film per the kit instructions (3m30s), using a standard 1Liter kit. Right now, I have Adonal brand BW kit - Developer (Rodinal), the fixer, and the wash - mixed up and stored in light-proof bottles. I understand i need: Developer Stop Bath Fixer Well, I made a few posts on Photrio. On the other hand color negative film can handle lots of overexposure without issue. Based on some of the scribbles on the airshow ones, most are probably from the mid 90s. close the door and turn out the lights, make sure there is no Check out Memphis Film Lab, it's a mail-in service (so not exactly what you asked for) but they have a bulk deal for $6 a roll for developing and scans for color. Also the hassle of expiring chemicals. It's the best deal I've found. The camera that shot the film is made of chemicals. hdi zkzb cyal qrbau tiul baq lzhcq gjua jtn ffno