P1s flow calibration reddit. I suspect the noise thing is a software solution to noise.

P1s flow calibration reddit a 3d models with their settings baked into them. Was wondering, it looks to me like the flow rate calibration is the same as the pressure advance in Orca Slicer. The new values were saved to the machine. Worst case it’s a new control board that should be able to be retro fitted. The part above was printed using Elegoo Rapid black PETG. . Honestly 220-230 is the general range I use for my X1C. Not entirely true, it also does flow calibration for both pressure advance and flow rate. I know it doesn’t have the fancy lidar, how would one go about calibrating the printer so… Highly recommend that you get orca slicer, which is a fork of bamboo studio, which has some extra calibration features. This is in the filament section in studio. 6mm nozzle using PLA and PETG and found no substantial differences. It would be great if someone knew what the flow rate Complete Calibration numbers (-20, -15, -10, -5, 0, etc. It all depends on what you want to print If pla sometimes petg, p1p is enough. I don't even own white filmanent. Anyone know if I’m guessing correctly? Aug 4, 2023 · I right click and add a generic cube, then print it in vase mode with 2 bottom surfaces and a flow ratio of 1. There is also calibration done at the beginning of each print. Hello where I can find Dynamic Flow Calibration in BambuSlicer, im tottaly blind thx for a hint Get the Reddit app P1S at 599$ and X1 at 1299$ I’ve done flow calibration every time I start a new print, and I also did the machine calibration process this morning. Anyhoo - I notice that there seems to be 2 distinct test patterns A 5-6 point 'X' pattern and a more thorough 24 point array pattern. Any help is appreciated :D Either of those ways is fine - print something on a smooth plate with flow calibration enabled, either let the print finish or cancel it after the flow calibration, then swap the plates and print without flow calibration enabled. My guess is they are automating it and the creation of filament profiles in the slicer. I'm not suggesting it would keep a bad read. As it runs completely on it's own I don't really see why not. r/VoxelabAquila. The automated flow calibration alone is worth it in time saved from calibration alone. But that’s just me. With too low of K the extruded does not slow down the flow early enough when the flow is meant to change. ) are equal to in terms of flow ratio. PETG is much more flexible than PLA so you will need to do PA(dynamic flow) calibration to get the K factor. The print was good, only bambu studio stopped working. In Bambu Studio right before the print job starts, I keep checked "Bed Leveling", and have also been checking the "Flow Dynamics Calibration" checkbox. Should I perform a flow dynamics calibration first and then a flow rate like Bambu "advertises" or is it the opposite? I'm not sure of the order. Even in bamboo studio, you can run the flow calibration on the generic filament profile for PETG or essay and once it gets calibrated, you’re able to save it as a custom named filament profile and use that for that same brand type of material in the future. 20mm Standard @BBL X1C0 (modified first layer print speed 25mm/s, first layer infill 105mm/s) For Flow Rate, I did not use the Orca Slicer test. Okay so you've done all the calibration, but what are the settings you're using after all this is done? Posting a screenshot of the filament profile and having a fresh set of eyes look at it would be helpful. Is it partial clogging ? P1S 0,4 nozzle 0,2 layer Anycubic PLA 220° 60° Aux fan on (as usual) Door closed (as usual) Thanks ! Hello u/Striking-Self8439!Be sure to check the following. I want to ask, how good is the Automatic flow calibration from the a1/a1 Where can i see the Active Flow Rate Compensation value from my A1 Mini? It would be very easy way to calibrate the flow for every spool of filament… But then I look at X1C and see it at least can do the pre-print auto flow rate calibration that P1S doesn't have, plus the lidar safety net. No issues, I run ABS, TPU, PLA. 05 but this looks nothing like what bambu shows in their wiki. For manual calibration, you should be able to just choose the plate you have and send it! Yep, only LIDAR versions can do in automaticly. Pressure advance is filament specific, so it's set in the filament settings. Most PLA is at 0. com) I find the "purge lines" (the ones printed before the actual model) to be too complex and a bit difficult to remove from the plate (the "green lines" at the bottom + at the top right corner of the plate on the attached screenshot, when displaying the slicer preview in Bambu Lab Studio) I've bought an P1s with the idea that i'd rather have a second P1s later than buy the more expensive X1c. ]" which implies it has to be done firstit is also listed first in the "Calibration" tab please help :D Hello, Considering that flow calibration should be turned off when using PEI Plate (textured one from bambulab) I've read on reddit that you should run flow calibration on cool plate, then switch plate to PEI and everything will go smooth. But I also see most people say calibration is generally not needed either. also remember to leave door open (and possibly top off) for PETG for cooling (EDIT or perhaps tweak fan settings as needed) You can get calibration models with profiles from Makerworld a. I really don't think this is a flow calibration issue since it is only in those specific spots. Hello, fellow P1S users. Others have suggested calibrating your flow on the flat plate for each filament on the x1, which seems interesting. Widely considered one of the greatest works within the sci-fi genre, Dune has been the subject of various film and TV adaptations, including the Academy Award winning 2021 film Dune directed by Denis Villeneuve. Flow calibration no, not really. This happened 2 times. If you want to go abs a p1s. 4mm nozzle K=. I even ran their manual calibration and typed in my new value and it still reverts back to the value from the auto calibration. AMS Lite ( 4 color and AMS works like filament box + dryer) 2- CoreXY, P1S is superior here 3- Fast nozzle change + automatic z-offset + automatic flow calibration : A1 winner Pick your own winner Also, unless this has been updated, the lidar only does pressure advance, not absolute flow like many think. The X1C is nice for printing with fancier materials and has extra convenience things like automatic flow calibration, but the P1S is still a great machine and will produce just as nice prints. 99% of the time this works great. They could have changed how they do the lidar calibration so take this with a grain of salt. I go to calibration in Bambu Studio, and it says that Flow Dynamics Calibration is now fully automatic? Apr 24, 2023 · At top Right Change (1) Line Type to Flow. I got a k value of 0. Probably because of the built in flow calibration. The other day it was suggested that my p1s is over extruding so I ran a flow Calibration test but I cannot decide which of these is actually good? Is there potentially a different issue happening here The multi color thing is likely a device to use that ams with other printers. Are they the exact same? Does the A1 have more auto calibrations than the P1S? Think I found that the P1S apparently doesn't have a flow calibration if I'm correct. P1S - Flow Dynamics Calibration I've a problem doing the flow dynamic(s?) calibration on my For owners of the P1S/P1P and A1/Mini, are the quick-release nozzle swap and auto flow calibration significant game changers, or are they just… Skip to main content Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home There is a second calibration for how a filament flows in general, flow ratio usually around 1. Those quality of life upgrades add up to a lot over time. eSun PLA+ gave 18mm³/s. Both of which can be performed manually, and most will save the manual one is better to fine tune. The others seems ok but then peeled up 10 minutes later (on single prints I never have issues with curling) I let it run the bed leveling every time it runs too. Let us know what support says! I'm curious! I ran initial calibration last November when I got my X1C. The lower your temperature, the less your flow rate is going to be. Hello u/thewolfman2010!Be sure to check the following. I'm trying to find out what are the differences in all the auto calibrations are between the two. Reply reply I've used this gcode many times and the same filament for a while without any problems for 500+ hours. But it somehow feels like a waste doing so? So I'm reaching out to the community of experts: When should I be checking the "Flow Dynamics Calibration" box? I just got my new p1s printer yesterday and it hasn't been printing great. Yeah, fortunately the part fan actually doesn’t make too much noise. Ultimately nothing sticks to the build plate. 0 flow ratio since it's the only one that makes the walls of the box exactly 0. one was just spaghetti after the first layer. Ever since I installed a . 8075 (calibrated from flow calibration). For example, the example belows shows how inside the layers the lines are not consistent (maybe overextrusion??) And this happens to all my prints. Question A1 flow dynamics seem to also be far more limited than their flow Dynamics wiki indicates and an edit is forthcoming, with A1 allegedly never saving the found values, meaning for multi color prints only manually found values can be used as flow dynamics calibration only runs for the first filament printed. 998. 018 for me for all of my Polyterra and esun PLA+) and the printer defaults to that value anyway so even if it is not done at all it will make no difference as the default value is sensible. Sometimes it gives a perfect print, sometimes these lines will randomly show. 033. Then (2) Scroll the Layer Slider until you (3) find the matching place where it failed and note the number. Only the X series has automatic flow calibration, you can manually calibrate the flow on the P series and save it, but that’s something that you would have to do on your own every filament. Bambu Studio lists flow dynamics first and says "After using flow dynamics, there might be [. You really do not need to do it for every print. calibrating K value using built in Bambu studio line calibration (had to go from k=0. Like the lidar for flow calibrations you dont need cuz you can manually set it or the better ai detection stuff it has. You can change that by editing the startup gcode but you’ll be removing some of the calibration that makes these machines function so well. I don't need to have like 5 different manual filament calibration profiles like I do on my P1S. But one function i am missing in the P1S. 03 pressure advance values. 03 . The only messy ones have been from me fucking with the settings without knowing what I'm doing. I've been really struggling with ironing. I found the flow rate test difficult to read. I suspect the noise thing is a software solution to noise. 01). I want to manually set the value but Bambu Studio greys it out and doesn't allow you to modify the K value. Only manual change was flow ration at . 99 - 0. Auto flow calibration doesn't matter as the presets are good and doing the flow calibration once per material does not take long. If you are printing PLA, chances are the values you get will be the same as the defaults. 20% infill. 024 . 4mm and . I was expecting the HS version to allow higher It has a bit of additional things to it that are good to have but not needed. Wipe clean the nozzle each time. I keep the Bed Leveling checkbox checked so the printer runs the calibration routine before every print (better safe than sorry!). But my printer is still not able to perform the manual flow calibration. 06. 85 (under extrution), one time to 1. Did flow dynamics and flow rate calibration. I had a discussion with a bambu engineer who explained that the LiDAR function in regards to the flow calibration is basically taking real time measurements for dynamic flow compensation and absolute flow compensation and using those values in place of what’s enabled on the filament profile. Jan 4, 2024 · It would be great if someone knew what the flow rate Complete Calibration numbers (-20, -15, -10, -5, 0, etc. The bendy in the 3rd photo was printed using the same elegoo black petg but with bambulab’s generic PETG profile without any flow calibration or adjustments. ) Swapping through the four different build plates I purchased. 29 votes, 44 comments. The X1C prints really fast and is actually limited by the flow rate of most filaments. X1C has auto flow calibration (which isn't that impactful as the presets are good and doing the flow calibration once per material does not take long) X1C has the Hardened Nozzle preinstalled (you can just buy a hardened nozzle from the store for $15, the difference in the price of X1C and P1S is $500 for perspective) I was calibrating filament on my P1S, flow dynamics, OK, K 0,03, but the second process in Flow rate calibration in Bambu studio failed right before end where I should put number of best printed field. Sep 12, 2023 · The flow calibration was backported from orca slicer. 6mm nozzle into my P1S, I've been getting various forms of over extrusion on the surface, even after calibration multiple times and reducing the flow, I still end up with this top surface on gears or anything with a lot of small details. The printer creates 3 lines with 0. Flow calibration is a very fine measurement and the surface of the texture makes the print more forgiving. Other than the weird issue with the hex screws needing to be loosened for the initial calibration-- but otherwise I've had stellar prints since day 1. Any x1c owners here try comparing print results between models using manual flow calibration and the lidar calibration and if so, was the quality noticeably different? I’m on the fence between the x1c and p1s and I think lidar is holding me back the most but if manual calibration provides noticeably better results I will probably forgo the lidar. Have P1S, print 90+% PLA, have found no need at all for the features the X1 brings to the table. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. I am using an AMS with the printer, and when I try to calibrate the Flow Dynamics and Flow rate can I save it to a specific user-created filament profile? Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now I think the P1S+0. A modded P1P is close but not quite as good as the X1C. 01, 0. true. I mean, do I have to use a calibrated K-value here beforehand (feeded into the filament profile) while performing this test or can I directly do this test without performing flow dynamics calibration and the flow rate calibration tests in my p1s?? Basically asking whether one has to do calibration of flow rate and K-value before running this test? Kind of at a loss. 16mm height. 1mm spacing The print quality on the A1 Mini right out of the box with no tuning FAR surpasses the P series printers. The Automatic flow calibration from the a1 Mini, that i can choose before the prints. When I click, it just gets stuck on this page with no information, and the p1s didn't do anything just sit there :<. 20 and flow ratio of 1. Or check it out in the app stores &nbsp; &nbsp; TOPICS P1S Flow calibration test fail 2. I have no idea what's going on. 025). Possibly an incorrect value for flow and/or pressure advance if you have that enabled. It does have the lidar to help with flow calibration and first layer scans, but ive heard many people talk about how good the P1P/S is for first layer. 6mm nozzle K=. When I watch the print it feels like extruder is too far from the build plate, but I don't know that is actually the case. Then I started reading on Reddit that the p1s will soon get a updated version with the technology of the a1, so quick swap nozzle, a touchscreen and flow calibration. This info is from my experience with my 3 x1c about 6 months ago. Check the wiki to see what you have to do to prevent bigger problems The A1 flow calibration is nice, but its a bedslinger, so taller prints will have problems and/or visual artifacts if you print too fast. I also highly value the A1 Mini's sheer silence after dealing with the P1S' jet engine levels of volume X1C is likely overkill based on what you said. 026. Then I use my micrometer to measure the wall thickness at 3 locations per side of the cube and take the average of all 12 values. You can turn off the bed level calibration on the printer dialog. Hello, why is my X1C not able to do the manual flow calibration? Tried two time and then contacted the support. If you're doing smaller objects, the A1 Mini is the way to go. In your case (like in mine with A1) you get printed around 20-25 small plates in 2 batches for initial calibration and fine tuning. It loves to hack digital stuff around such as radio protocols, access control systems, hardware and more. I’ve had on more than one occasion the machine do a pre-print calibration and tell me the belts are not tightened enough and I need to clean the carbon rods and retighten. 931 so been using that as well. I’ve run the racetrack VF test for Bambu PLA Basic, and got 21mm³/s. I used the BS-SF PA and flow calibration on the . So far so good. I only do bed leveling once a day, I've turned off flow calibration, bed sticker reading, spaghetti, just about everything off and just print. Or check it out in the app stores &nbsp; &nbsp; TOPICS P1S Flow Rate Calibration . I have an a1 Mini and want to buy a bigger printer. You would still need to calibrate flow beforehand. 4 mm nozzle K=. 15mm spacing Right: 150mm/s, 45% flow, 0. Does it just run the in the background or is there a menu for it when changing out filament? I see videos regarding the P1S manual calibration where it prints for the K value and texture smoothness. I had previously manually flow calibrated the filament and got a Flow Ratio of 1. 02 to k=0. 9 flow rate (see picture). That way I can pick a starting point for the Fine Calibration and enter it manually. I'm looking for any information regarding the Active Flow Rate Compensation and Auto Flow Dynamics. If I run the auto-calibration in the calibration menu in Bambu Slicer, then save that PA Profile/Factor K, does that pretty much entirely remove the need to do the "Flow Dynamics Calibration" before a print, so long as I'm using a filament I calibrated beforehand? Hi, I just got the p1s a week ago. How to Flow Dynamics Calibration Question This is what i get when I select “Line” and leave the k value thing to default start at 0 go to 0. I also did calibration again. But anyway, I've been running the flow calibration with every print that I do (2-3x a day). 6 top layers at 0. But there is some confusion: I've tested it, by manually setting the Filament Flow Rate in Bambu Studio to 0. 02 (tested with orca - it’s 0. This was printed with PLA+ at 220 initial layer and 210 rest of layers on a 70c bed. Mar 5, 2024 · For manual calibration, you should be able to just choose the plate you have and send it! Yep, only LIDAR versions can do in automaticly. So I ran the auto calibration and the value disagrees with my manual calibration. The flow was similar in sub 10% difference. IIRC PLA . So on i compare a lot and for future builds with maybe ASA the closed P1S would be the best. Calibrating flow ratio (both using box method and orca slicer's calibrations). I just received the printer, and I am having a hard time understanding how to calibrate filaments. Update Studio and it will use that flow when you use the Hey all, I just got my P1S today and I'm wondering if I can auto calibrate with the included textured plate? I started to and then stopped because I… Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. If they are launching a new printer and abandoning X1C users, it will go badly. The "Flow Rate Calibration" is for the calibration of the "Flow ratio", which is stored into the user presets of the Filaments (only in Bambu Studio, not stored into the Printer itself) What I'm just wondering, when you start your print, you can select automatic Flow Dynamics calibration with the Lidar. Hardened Nozzle (you can just buy a hardened nozzle from the store for $15, the different in the price of X1C and P1S is $500 for perspective) I pick the generic profile for non Bambu lab filament when loading the AMS. 045 for me. PETG . PEX and smooth PEI have been fine for automatic flow ratio calibrations. Support suggested to do a factory reset and do the dynamics flow calibration (result was 0. if you’re trying to reduce noise, I would say simply set the auxiliary fan to zero and set the chamber fan to 50% or less unless you live in a very hot ambient temperature region, you most likely are not going to need the chamber fan to be all that high in order to prevent heat creep. The only failures that I’ve had have been with clear filament (to be expected) and with the PA auto calibration using a PEX plate. This includes the vibration suppression calibration. Yesterday I did the new Automatic Flow Calibration (Firmware 01. It can be kind of annoying that it doesn’t just print right away, but it’s a small price to pay for reliably high quality prints. I can see that the Bed levelling yes. Everything is proprietary and it's unsupported after less than a year? Mar 5, 2024 · For manual calibration, you should be able to just choose the plate you have and send it! Yep, only LIDAR versions can do in automaticly. I try to reinstall the Bambuslicer and even try to install it on my other computer. I'm wondering if has a default flow calibration for the filament profile, and if it doesn't get a good read, it falls back Flow calibration is a feature of the X1C. If you honestly just want to put a spool, run two automatic (Lidar) calibrations the X1C would get you better results. For flow calibration you can manually do this and save the results as a preset, if you are going to be using several brands of filament it may be worth the time/effort to do so. Default temp of 255 was just too high. Everything is proprietary and it's unsupported after less than a year? Happy to read this, because I was thinking I "cheaped out" on getting the P1S, and I just knew in my heart I didn't :D Reply reply Miserable_Ad_1401 Hey Everyone! I’m relatively new to 3-D printing, and I just purchased a P1S and love it. Quick question/point of clarification. Own an X1 and P1S — I calibrate every filament color and brand on my X1 using the lidar on a cool plate or high temp plate, save them in a spreadsheet, and refer to them for the P1S. and the left side looks great even with the corner coming up (you'd get layer squish in both X and Y axis if it were a problem) something else is your primary problem. The Flow Rate Calibration is the calibration of the Filament Setting Flow Rate, which is just saved to the Bambu Studio User Preset filament setting. Using Inland PLA+, calibrated with an K of 0. I don't always run flow calibration, as I'm printing on the textured PEI plate (don't know if the results would be useful at all for the Lidar) - if I'm printing on a compatible plate I do run it at least once every power on for each filament that I'm using at the time. It appears the a series is somehow doing an automated flow calibration before every print, that is something the P series does not have access to. Dune is a landmark science fiction novel first published in 1965 and the first in a 6-book saga penned by author Frank Herbert. Switch to Orca Slicer. P1S should bring better and faster printers for larger or taller objects, small comparison I can make for you: 1- AMS vs. In the machine start gcode it also performs some other types of calibration related steps. I think there are some features in the X1c that improve reliability like the flow calibration and the bad print / adhesion detection, but if you don't mind opening the app sometimes to check the progress, i dont think its a must. Now it prints perfect every time without fail. Tried dropping nozzle print temp by 5C, same thing happens. Sep 27, 2023 · Just got my P1S, and although the quality has been great, aren't I supposed to run a flow calibration? I'm using eSun PLA+, and chose that filament in the drop down box. 035. 0816 and a and a K factor of 0. 2 Nozzle is just a resin printer in disguise. Looks like that front left corner *is* lifting but the front right looks perfectly flat. I tried doing a flow calibration test and it gave me this result (picture 1). PLA typically has K 0. k. This I suspect is more software changes for the x1c using the LiDAR to measure the flow calibration. Flow dynamics seems fine as it is. Running printer self calibration again Bumping up your first layer flow, or editing the g code that adjusts the z-offset for the various plate types could be a temporary band-aid. I can't do the Manual Flow Dynamics Calibration. (You can measure with calipers and calculate, this is the easier way) Jul 24, 2023 · I was using the new release to run the flow calibration when I saw the K value issue. Total newb, these are some of my first few prints. P1S is better option for cost if you dont care about the fancy stuff cuz its not entirely needed I will document my calibration results using Orca Slicer (latest version and firmware at time of this writing) Preset: 0. Whether you're looking for guides on calibration, advice on modding, or simply want to share your latest 3D prints on the Ender 3, this subreddit is your go-to hub for support and inspiration. I normally use the Engineering plate or High Temp plate for the automatic PA calibrations. Made a new post about it here: (P1S) New Hotend, already clogged with white filament?? : BambuLab (reddit. I use the Bambu lab profile for their filaments. P1S Filament calibration questions upvote I have an x1c. I'm guessing there's too much flow happening. Use the system preset for overture PLA matte and Bambu PLA matte. The X1C does have hardened steel parts allowing abrasives like carbon fiber filled filaments and glow in the dark stuff (it's super abrasive). 15 (over extrution), and made sure, the checkbox It’s about how the calibration works. Members Online I ran an OrcaSlicer flow rate calibration, -10 gave me the best results, and if I follow the "tutorial" it has me doing math (FlowRatio_old*(100 + modifier)/100) But if you click on the -10 object, it tells you it printed at a 0. Everything is proprietary and it's unsupported after less than a year? how to set back flow calibration when mid printing and adding new spool after it runs out? I don't think that's your problem. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with dish soap and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate. Also, how do you rate overall noise on A1 vs P1S/X1C once the fans have been adjusted down on the P1/X1? Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now Weak Parts after flow calibration. 04). Also, I did do flow calibration and it came out to be 0. I lowered it to 225 for 1st layer, and 230 for rest, and lowered the Max Volumetric Speed to 10mm/sec. There are also overhang tests, flow calibration, support tests, infill tests and a lot of other stuff Printer & Slicer: Bambu P1S Filament Material and Brand: Bambu ABS Nozzle temp: 255 -> 270C Bed temp: 90C Print Speed Nozzle Retraction Settings Calibrated using OrcaSlicer's temperature calibration tower with near-default settings. I recently got some Overture 95A TPU but I have been having trouble printing it; the flow rate calibration doesn’t even finish before the extruder starts clicking and this has happened multiple times. (Edit) Printer self-calibration with the plate. But today when I was sending a job to the printer, I saw that only one of the slot was loaded with the right K value. You don’t need to do any but if you really want to calibrate filaments, check out the softfever fork of bambu studio with its flow calibration and pressure advance. I don't know if running the lidar calibration is doing that for me, or if that calibration data persists onto the next print, the same roll, or is dumped after each time I press The rest is optional, I don’t do max flow calibration because I never run at even close to the max speed. Left: Settings: 65mm/s, 22% flow, 0. Just got my P1S, and although the quality has been great, aren't I supposed to run a flow calibration? I'm using eSun PLA+, and chose that filament in the drop down box. I have an X1C and am very happy with it, but my hobby level printing probably doesn't really use all its capabilities. 02 and 0. 8mm, and according to orca's method flow ratio should be around 0. Do the calibration and again you have a choice of printing a thing and you look at it or print another thing and the machine look at it with lidar. I only do the resonant frequency calibration if I have moved the printer, and the bed levelling I leave unless I get a bad first layer which is not all that often, I have an X1 Carbon and I do use the flow calibration although I am not 100% certain it does anything, although the times I have printed with it off it may have used the stored values. 02, PETG is like 0. This all assuming you’re using Orca, with Bambu Studio you can’t even store the flow value (k) for every separate filament and you have to input it manually with every filament change (people use excel sheets to store their values We have both and honestly the extras are worth it. Meaning that you also lose tolerance for the flow calibration. It needs the higher flow rate to keep up with its speed. The auto flow rate calibration is absolutely amazing when dealing with new filaments. Flipper Zero is a portable multi-tool for pentesters and geeks in a toy-like body. I reseated all the cables and the calibration completed, but after calibration now there's what looks like white filament clogged in the brand new hotend. 02 for PLA and that is the same as the default. Ive tried 30-150mm/s in steps of 30. They are the flow calibration - you can disable it but its a good idea to let run every time for the best most consistent print quality and are part of why you paid extra for the X1C vs a P1S Reply reply I’m a new P1S owner, and I’m trying to understand some things relating to volumetric flow and filament calibration. Questions about flow calibration Disabled the flow calibration (on the X1C. I thought it would be a good idea to calibrate the filament but wanted some feedback reading the calibration. (The one where it vibrates a ton) I’ve dried the PLA in the oven today for four hours between 45 and 70 degrees C. Trick was to lower the flow, temp and speed in filament settings. I don't even know how to change a K value. But then I’ve run it for eSun PLA+HS - and also gotten 18mm³/s. According to the box method I should use exactly 1. Hi, I've had the P1S since about thanksgiving 2023 and just after this recent update to the Bambu studio software my printer does a "Flow Calibration" where it just used to do a line purge. This solved remaining issues. The documentation on that is limited at best. I’m getting a P1 I’m getting a P1S tomorrow. I own both P1S and P1S-AMS. I tried the flow calibration and it was a disaster. Also, if you really get into printing, you're going to want more than one printer. So if you did the flow calibration on the Cool Plate and then did another print with the Textured PEI plate, but skipped the flow calibration, it would keep the last good value. umqs wgeoks rehsu uuncnc ylme okae jptiibx ycfbgr ifqzzryr snd